Almost time to move on.. Projects and Friends..

For another week and a half or so.. depending on the weather, Erin and I are in Bishop. This week unfortunately looks very hot, so it will be a battle to try and send our remaining projects.. If we don’t get’em all this time around they will be there next time I suppose..
However, my philosophy has always been if you are capable at a moment in time of climbing something at or very close to your limit you had better try your absolute hardest to get it done. There is no foreseeing the future. Injuries and life can get in the way at any moment and you will probably never see it coming. The time for action is now!
So, before we leave we are going to try our absolute hardest to get the proj’s done..
You are probably wondering what these projects are so I guess I’ll spill the beans even though I’m reluctant too so I don’t jinx us..

Acid Wash Right (V9). She’s fallen at the last move twice from the start. There is a very friction dependent hold. Heat doesn’t help. Will she pull through?
Juniors Achievement (V8). A historical crimp line that is very sharp at the Buttermilks that was the hardest line in the area for a while. The heat makes it that much sharper..
Twisted Sister Sit (V9). She’s got this one I think and it’s at Rock Creek and higher in elevation.. She just has to drop the hammer and we need to go there..
Erin also has many other things that are harder and easier (at least number wise) she has been trying and could very well do at any moment.

Mandala (V12). I am so close I can taste it. I’ve done all the moves. I Almost did it yesterday. It absolutely destroys your skin. Heat doesn’t help. Going back monday morning and warming up at 6 am in hopes it’s cold enough. It might not be..
Michael Caine Sit (V12/13) So very close… could go at any moment. I had a horrible dry fire off it last session and got two of the worst, and bloodiest knuckle bashers I’ve ever had.
Tony’s Dyno Rock Creek (V heinous for me..) I’ve put more than 50 days of effort in over the years. Enough said.
There are many more lingering around too but enough with that…

I’m helping with the Bishop Bouldering Guide Update and have been tracking down obscure and undocumented climbs along with updating info regarding current climbs. If you have any info that you would like to contribute please contact me at! If you are a concerned about certain undocumented local areas that have sensitive access being revealed, rest assured they won’t be, and know that I am really trying to keep the bigger picture in mind.

Speaking of obscure climbs I have done some pretty darn cool ones..
We climbed a number of undocumented classic problems at the Bardini’s that I’m sure had been done many times before. One of them I ended up doing was a really unique bulge problem that checked in around V9 or 10.. If anyone knows a name for it please let me know!
Here is a video of that one, along with Slow Dance (V10) at the Happy Boulders.  

Erin climbed what is perhaps her first V8, Water Hazard Right at the Sads. It’s in the current guide as a 9, but we both think an 8 is fair. I think I inadvertently put up this variation years ago when I was trying to do Water Hazard (V10) and started it wrong.

Erin eyes the lip on Water Hazard Right.

Erin eyes the lip on Water Hazard Right.

I did one other harder and cool obscure climb at the Buttermilks yesterday. It starts right of Gleaming the Cube on the cave boulder sitting in a scoop. I had my right hand on a low faint sloper and left on a cool rib hold. It did a few contorted and funky stem moves to join Gleaming the Cube and probably checks in around V9 or 10. I know it has been done before, and if you’re in the area check it out. I made up a name for it, 3D, and if somebody knows of a previous name it let me know.

A couple good friends of ours Mike Lohre of Mike’s Mix (aka Mr. Mix) and Matt Satermo came out and climbed around with us a bit. It was a great time and very refreshing to have fun with these guys for a few days.. Here’s a couple shots of them tearing it up..

Matt's first problem at the Happy's ever, the mega Heavenly Path (V1)

Matt’s first problem at the Happy’s ever, the mega Heavenly Path (V1)

Mr. Mix bears down on the Happy's classic, Every Color You Are (V6).

Mr. Mix bears down on the Happy’s classic, Every Color You Are (V6).

Also of note.. the Devil’s Lake Bouldering guide is coming along.. Get psyched!

Okay, I gotta run, Erin and I are going to relax at Keough’s hot springs for a couple hours before I head to work. Hopefully everyone is well!


2 thoughts on “Almost time to move on.. Projects and Friends..

  1. I didn’t know Water Hazard Right was your line! I’m curious though, that line gets stood/hung started by… most… people. If you Google it, you’ll see what I’m talking about. The guidebook has it as a SDS though. How’d the FA go down on that one? Ass on the pads or in some other style?


    • Hey Daniel. When I initially did it, fairly soon after the first ascent, I thought I was doing Water Hazard. I started sitting, climbed the line, and realized it felt easier than V10. I later found out I started it incorrectly.. Now there’s Water Hazard Right!


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