Devil’s Lake State Park is the largest bouldering area in the Midwest. It has near perfect rock; it is extremely hard, usually quite slippery and generally has a purple color to it. It is a very unique place to boulder due to the holds and movement the rock creates. The rock type, Baraboo quartzite, is only found in the general vicinity of the park.
Devil’s Lake has been getting explored more and more, and many new boulder problems are getting put up every year. Currently there are about 900 established problems. The purpose of this site is to expose the bouldering potential this place holds. A proper guide book is in the works by myself and others and will be available soon. There are still many hard projects, and I have seen boulder problems there that are unclimbed that would surely be some of the hardest in the world, and they do look like they could just be climbed by the right person at the right moment.
To start things off, here is a list of currently established problems that I believe are unrepeated. All of the problems included are at least of fairly good quality. If you are reading this and going to be out enjoying “the lake” this fall go get after this list and try and bag a second ascent!
Current B3 Boulder Problems at Devil’s Lake State Park
Problems are organized by the date they were established. Ratings are unconfirmed, since the problems have probably only seen one ascent. The area they are located is listed along with the possible first ascenionist. PB is Peter Bonamici, ICB is myself, Ian Cotter-Brown. For our list we’ll only include problems initially graded V7 or harder.
Pi’s Problem, V9? (ungraded), Alpine Club Area, Date?, Pi
Ejaculator Right, V7, Ejaculator Area, Fall 2000? Jim Maierhofer
Black Sheep, V7, Midforest Circuit, October 2009, Nic Oklobzija
Falling to Pieces, V10, Super Slab Area, September 2011, ICB
The Ivory Face, V11 or 12?, Flatiron Area, November 2011, ICB
Wafflehouse, V8 or 9, Burma, April 2012, ICB, possible earlier ascent
by Mike Gasch.
Burmese Python, V11, Burma, April 2012, ICB
Catch Me If You Can, V7, December 2012, ICB
Funeral Service, V8, March 2013, ICB
Snuggle Bunny, V9, March 2013, ICB
SPF40, V7, Block Party Boulders, April 2014, ICB
Butter Burger, V10, Block Party Boulders, April 2013, ICB
Cherry Underneath, V9, Monolith, April 2013, PB
Sticky Icky, V9, Super Slab Area, April 2013, ICB
Purple Moj, V9, Super Slab Area, April 2013, ICB
The Irregular Route, V9, Midforest Circuit, April 2013 PB
Hot and Ready, V11, Fat Raccoon Area, May 2013, ICB
Final Cut, V10, Bulbous Area, June 2013, ICB
The Piano, V8, CCC Trail Upper Talus, September 2013, ICB
Circus World, V11, Greatest Show Boulders, October 2013, PB
The False, V11, Block Party Boulders, November 2013, ICB
Nerd, V8, Ghost Talus Field, November 2013, Tyler Thurmes
Drunchies, V11, Fat Raccoon Area, November 2013, ICB
Full Sail, V11, Ghost Talus Field, November 2013, ICB
Lake Boulder Lunge Sit, V9, The Reserve, November 2013, ICB?
Astroidea, V10/11, The Reserve, November 2013, PB
The Fukness, V10/11, Birthday Rocks, November 2013, ICB
Battle Cry, V10, East Bluff North Talus Field, March 2014, ICB
Fukness Direct, V10/11, Birthday Rocks, March 2014, ICB
The Awakening, V11 or 12, East Bluff North Talus Field, April 2014, PB
Born in Blood, V12?, Monolith, May 2014, ICB
Angry Squirrel Sit, V9, Fat Raccoon Area, August 2014, PB