Recapping: Bishop 2015/16

And now we continue on with our recapping, to catch up to where we currently are, in Estes Park reeling from a spring snow storm.  It has stopped snowing and the next few days look promising.

Note: The wordpress site doesn’t really work right (aka sucks to use), so I apologize that you have to click on the link text to see a photo or video.

I stopped in Bishop for a few weeks in mid-December with the main intention of helping Charlie Barrett with the new comprehensive guide book to Bishop bouldering.  I did quite a bit of leg work this past spring, finding and documenting around two or three hundred new problems to add to the new book.  Charlie is doing the lion’s share of the work, but regardless it is nice to be part of a project that has significance to me.  Bishop is the place that really ignited the bouldering bug for me.

I was out there for a few weeks.  Charlie and I would meet up regularily and we got some stuff done.  I would expect the final product to be out there in a few months or so, but don’t hold me to that.

I did do some climbing indeed.  I had a few problems, all in the Buttermilks I wanted to get done.  Sadly I would walk away with only having done one, but that’s the way the cookie crumbles sometimes.

This time around it was cold! Perhaps too cold at times.  I was car camping and there were several nights where the car would get started a few times to heat things up.  The first hard one I got on was the Michael Caine Sit, a tricky V12 put up by Matt Birch.  I didn’t do it right off the bat but did all the moves.  I was psyched. second was the Mandala.  It felt hideously sharp and quite hard.  Really just as it had in the past.  Fortunately I managed to escape with no skin damage the first day on these things.

Then I started trying a hard Chris Schulte problem, Constellation, that at the time I thought perhaps was unrepeated.  I was wrong about that, as it turns out it had gotten a couple more sends.  After several days of effort I did manage to desperately send this sweet line, which I was super psyched about. is a fairly heady and sustained, with a delicate mantle right at the end (at least the way I did it).  Full package I would say.  I thought it checked in around solid V11 or so.

The next day I went back to the one I really wanted, The Mandala.  Sadly after a few goes I sheared the entire pad off my middle finger.  It was deep and bloody.  It became very apparent that I would not be able to do The Mandala or Michael Caine Sit with this wound, due to both having very sharp left hand holds.  It was a psych killer.

I changed my focus to the Tablelands.  The Sad Boulders in specific.  I knew of a few potentially undone lines there I was interested in that weren’t so left hand intensive.  I worked a super proud and potentially classic project out there that would maybe be a scary V10 or 11 that I never summoned the courage or pads to give a proper send.  Next time…  I then went to a line Charlie and I thought had perhaps not been done that seemed quite hard.  I surprised myself by climbing it quite quickly and dubbed it Resurgence (V9ish).  It was a good one.  I have learned since then that perhaps it had been done in the past and was called Mad Cow, but hey that’s how it goes sometimes.  I suspect holds have since gone missing since it was previously done, but that is just my suspicion.

It was nice being in Bishop.  It was also nice heading to the next destination, Las Vegas, where I would pick Erin up and we would explore the beautiful, and new to us area, Red Rocks.  Stay tuned for a recap of that, and then we will step into the present.  Hope all is well with everyone and Happy upcoming Easter!



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