Fall is quickly moving past us in central Wisconsin. The cold crisp air we crave so much for bouldering is abundant.. So much so that it almost feels like it will never end. But it will. The winter is coming. Get out there now while the getting is good.
First of all, props to Travis Keaney for establishing what looks to be a classic V6, Wildwood. It’s in the Mirror Talus Field, and I haven’t had the chance to check it out.
One person who has been taking full advantage of the good weather is Peter Bonamici. Peter says, “I’ve always been a fan of big circuits – you get to push yourself physically and mentally, all while climbing a ton of amazing problems. I started thinking about one on the East Bluff over the summer and, still unable to get it out of my head, attempted it on Sunday.” During the day he climbed 20 problems that are V7 or harder… He made them all look piss easy too (okay, okay, Perfect Medium looked a little desperate:). Impressive right? What’s even cooler is that he filmed the whole thing and now we get to enjoy it. He shot it with his I phone for the sake of being light since he walked around quite a bit, and he did a damn good job at shooting it. For the record this is surely the sickest one day bouldering circuit ever done in Wisconsin (or midwest?) bouldering history. Check it out, it’s a must watch for anyone that is interested in bouldering at the lake..
Besides the circuit, Peter has been sending other stuff. He fired off the second ascents of The Fukness and The False respectively. I thought the False was a hard one and rated it a V11. It’s weird tech climbing with a kinda funky landing in the talus. It’s a nice looking line on a stand alone block too. Fukness took a few sessions for me, but it definitely felt easier than The False. I guessed 10 or 11. Peter says 9/10 for False, and 8 for Fukness. People should get on these and add their two cents. They are both fun and worthy.
Peter also put up a couple lines worth mentioning. He did a V8ish problem on the Treehugger boulder next to the Tumbled Rocks Trail on the West Bluff that apparently climbs through a “sick” pinch. It’s called Clear Cut. He also sent the Crimp Toehook proj in Loompa land on the West Bluff and dubbed it Animated Hands. He says V8 on that one too. We had tried this a couple years previous in hotter weather and a hold broke, discouraging us. Peter went back and got redemption, apparently sending it in only a couple tries.
I’m going to mention one more thing. When Peter climbed Dagger of the Lake on his circuit he started with his hands on opposite start holds. His low hand was a little high on the arete too. It looks like it makes it a hell of a lot easier. I’m not taking anything away from Peter, I just want the information to be out there since I spent four days on it to establish it. If you want to compare the way it climbs starting it this way here is video of me on the FA..
So is it okay to do that you wonder? That is up to you. I personally dislike like the “sherrif” mentality. Climbing is a game with rules that we make up and it is purely personal. I have skipped a starting move because it’s dumb or dabbed and called it good, or started with my hands switched up like Peter and been totally been okay with it. I just note to myself that I did not do it the way it was put up, or yeah, I dabbed even if I don’t think it helped. There are however a few rules that all climbers should abide by I think, and here they are:
1. Don’t chip holds.
2. Treat the Environment with respect
3. Treat people with respect and be encouraging.
Unfortunately I have to report that certain climber(s) in the midwest have violated that third one, some time and time again. What’s annoying and frustrating about it to me is that some of these people are role models for kids or “leaders” in the community.
For example, if climber A takes the time to add a climb or fun variation to Mountain Project for other people to enjoy, should you comment and chime in “That’s looks super lame. You suck.”?
The answer is no. You shouldn’t. Especially if you are one of the “role model” or “leader” people.
I think people that write “hater” comments are enemies to the climbing community. And I’m not talking about some friendly smack talking either.
If people become discouraged to spread information due to fear of having others slandering them we will no longer see information being shared, and that would be a real shame, especially since there are so many climbs being rediscovered or established in the midwest.
Think twice before you post up negative things. Ain’t nobody got time for that.
Okay, that’s my rant. Also I would appreciate it if people wouldn’t create 2 different facebook accounts and slander me on my Facebook wall for putting up new climbs (Actually happened like last week). That’s some weird sh– right?
For the record too, it is important for people to speak up and say how hard they think new climbs are. If you think something is easier do not feel bad about saying saying so. If you think it’s harder, swallow your pride and say so too. The first ascensionist will not always guess the grade right or use the best beta. And Gosh Darnit, I want the grades to be consistent and make sense around here. With the guidebook going to print in the near future, getting consensus grades would be great.
This past week I had the good fortune of climbing in Boone, North Carolina. The weather was good, though still a touch hot. I managed to send the Ominous Roof, a rad V9. I got close on a couple of awesome 11’s, Sunday Service and Roadside Distraction, and tried an epic V10 The Masochist but didn’t manage to send. I’m definitely going back some day to try and finish these things off. Here are a few videos out there of Boone if you want to check them out.
Happy climbing everyone, the weather looks absolutely outstanding this week.