We left Bishop.
This winter was really hot and we were both ready for a change…
We are now in the Lake Tahoe area. The weather is great for climbing up here.. It’s refreshing to feel cold and sticky rock once again…
To start things off we spent a week in the South Shore area..
If you don’t know, the rock in Tahoe is generally what I think of as proper granite. The crystals that are melded together are usually small and smoother, hence forth the holds you grab tend to be substantially less spikey than the holds in Bishop.. This is a very welcome change for me at least! (I still love Bishop, don’t get me wrong..) The movement tends to be very technical and interesting and the boulders generally are very climbable.. And there are A LOT of boulders in Tahoe..
Tahoe is in it’s golden age of development right now so it’s a pretty exciting place to be if you’re into putting up new climbs.. Also there are tons of established problems I have never even seen.. Oh man.
We’ll just do a little recap of what’s happened since we’ve arrived..
We climbed at the Beavers a few days. Erin did some classics and I think I put up a handful of fun new lines in the V5-V10 range.. I did a different start to an existing V4, Beaver Feaver, that checks in around V10 called Tickle Me Beaver. I also did a fun new mini-compression problem dubbed Belly of the Beaver that felt about V9. I put up another V8, Moss Man Prophecies, and a fun traversing V5 with interesting moves, Don’t Feed the Beavers.
We climbed at Lake Audrain one day. I tried my buddy Jesse Bonin’s problem, The Geode (V11). It’s a sick little mini squeeze rig and it’s hard! I got all the moves but didn’t put it together before the sun crept over the barely existent holds rendering them unusable for me.. Next time.. Erin and I both did Sloper Slide Original (V8), I put together The Path of Most Resistance (V10) and Globe Trotters Sit (V9) also.
We went up to the Mountain Beavers with Charlie Barrett. Charlie and I wanted to send one problem for the day each and we were both successful.. Charlie did the epic squeeze prow Integrity (V10) second try. I did another Bonin masterpiece Soliasit (V9). Both of these lines are incredible… Erin ticked off some classics as well. Here’s a vid of Jesse doing the first ascent of Solilasit..
We also went on a three day exploratory backpacking trip with Jesse Bonin, Charlie Barrett and Joe Debaun. Jesse and Kenyon Smith developed some boulders near Lake Elbert this past year and there were more to do and look at. Jesse gave us the tour of the developed lines and we weren’t disappointed.. There were a ton of fun ones. I had a very enjoyable, and big day of climbing repeating Bonin’s and Kenyon’s lines. I managed a flash of Squeaky Tree Gets the Grease (V9) and Snapper Roof (V8). Charlie FA’d a sick sloper problem that went at V8 and I pulled the second ascent out with difficulty. I put up a pretty fun link up that went at V8 that was very good I thought, and dubbed it Flock of Seagulls.
We shot a ton of video, expect to see that soon. Bonin has several unrepeated, hard, and good problems up there and he climbed some for the camera.. I tried a couple of the harder ones with no success.. They felt hard! Erin also strongly fired off Squeaky Tree Gets the Grease (V9). Charlie second ascented Cuban Reuban (V9). The few days in the wilderness were great and it was nice escape the world and have no phone service for a few days.
I am running out of time here. We are in Truckee now, just north of the Lake. We’ve climbed a couple days up here and we’re hanging out with some friends..
At Soda Springs I had a good day.. I flashed the classic Fresh Tips (V8), did Shibadang (V10) and White Stallion (V10). White Stallion was amazing.. It climbs up a beautiful, tall and slightly overhanging wall to a V5 mantle move with some bad fall potential. Erin came so close to Fresh Tips.. soon.
I also came very close to doing Charlie Barrett’s mega line Boyz in the Hood (V12) yesterday. Hopefully tomorrow…
Here’s a vid of that too..